🐚Kovalam or Varkala?

Two parts of the same shore, one ocean, and hundreds of ways to understand that paradise comes in different moods

🌴 What’s the deal?

Locals say that Kovalam is the 🕉️ morning Om, and Varkala is the 🎶 evening jam.Let’s figure out why — and where the secret spice lies that divides travelers into two loyal camps.

Both 🐚 Kovalam and 🌅 Varkala aren’t single beaches — they’re whole clusters of tiny worlds, where each curve of the coast reveals a new character of the ocean, and the landscape shifts suddenly and without warning.

☀️ Kovalam — Three Arcs and a Hundred Moods:

• 🏝️ Lighthouse Beach — waves, sand, sunbeds, restaurants, shops, and a working lighthouse you can climb for a panoramic view: a carnival of life, sea creatures, and massages generously seasoned with oil.

• 🌊 Hawa / Eve’s Beach — slightly calmer waves, but much busier: speedboats, water fun, budget meals, and the scent of spices mixed with temple incense.

• 🐚 Samudra Beach — perfect for sunset watching and slow dinners by candlelight under the sound of waves. The sand here appears in September and often disappears by January — but in November and December, it turns into a long strip made for evening walks. 🏝️ Nearby beaches — Leela, Groove, Soma — are smaller but charming (on Leela Beach, the water is calm and great for swimming).

  
  

  A bit farther, within 10 km, 🪷 Azhimala | Chowara | Somatheeram | Adimalathura | Pulluvila form a long sandy stretch that flows into Poovar with its Golden Sand Beach and quiet mangrove lagoons.

  
  

  From Aazhimala Shiva Temple, if you turn away from the temple, you’ll find a trail along the cliff with ocean views and a tropical garden leading to hidden, deserted coves — perfect for photos or solitude.

☀️Varkala is a stunning cliff, endless stairs, and people forever moving up and down with calm acceptance 😄

• 🌴 North Cliff — the iconic postcard view: on top, a promenade full of cafés, yoga studios, and surf schools; below, a wide golden-sand beach with water sports.

• 🌺 South Cliff — greener and quieter, without crowds, home to boutique hotels, stylish cafés, and villas for those seeking peace and reflection.

• ⚫ Black Beach / Thiruvambady — mysterious volcanic sand, darker waves, and evenings filled with fire shows and music under the stars.

• 🌾 Odayam — serenity, fishermen, coconut palms, kayaking, and sunrise yoga.

• 🌊 Kappil and Edava — where lagoons meet the ocean: ideal for kayaking, birdwatching, and picnics in nature.

🚗 Getting There & Civilisation

✈️ Trivandrum International Airport (TRV):

• 🚕 Kovalam — 25 minutes.

• 🚗 Varkala — 1–1.5 hours.

🚉 Railway stations:

• From Kovalam it’s closer to Trivandrum Central and Kochuveli.

• Varkala has its own Sivagiri station (walking distance), though not all trains stop there.

🚖 Taxis and tuk-tuks are plentiful, but Uber and Ola sometimes act up — especially at rush hours. Local drivers aren’t big fans of online calculators — they prefer setting the price “by inspiration.” Bargaining is part of the local sport 😄.

🛍️ Infrastructure: pharmacies, fruits, sunscreen, and mangoes — all within reach.

But if you need Lulu Mall, hospitals, or just the pulse of city life — Kovalam wins easily (buses to Trivandrum run every 15–30 minutes).

🏨 Hotels and Housing

Kovalam is known for its high concentration of five-star hotels — Taj Green Cove, The Leela Kovalam, Turtle on the Beach, Niraamaya, Rockholm, UDS — where everything is generally top-notch, including the prices.

Varkala, on the other hand, is more modest when it comes to “five-stars” (there simply aren’t any), but it offers several new boutique hotels and small guesthouses with stylish design, great service, and a relaxed atmosphere — and some of them, by the way, can also bite with their prices.

Overall, both locations have plenty of accommodation options — for long-term stays or short getaways — ranging from simple guest rooms for ₹ 1 000 per night to modern villas with pools, patios, and ocean views. During the season (November – February) prices go up, while in the monsoon you can stay almost for peanuts.

From our experience, at the same level of comfort Kovalam is currently a bit cheaper, especially if you book in advance.

If you’re planning to spend the winter here, expect to pay ₹ 25 000 – 50 000 per month for a good house within walking distance of the beach and equipped with everything you need for a long stay.

If you prefer hotels, look on Booking.com or Agoda.com; if you’d rather rent a house, guesthouse, or apartment — check Airbnb.com

Many seasoned winter residents do it this way: they book an inexpensive hotel for a couple of days and then look for housing on the spot — it’s convenient if you’re not in a rush and plan to stay for a few months.

But if you want to save time and nerves, use our database of verified houses and apartments at vmeste.in

🌿 Ayurveda and Practices

In Kovalam it’s easier to find traditional, full-fledged clinics with doctors and proper Ayurvedic programmes, although there are plenty of tourist-oriented salons here, especially in the beach zone.

In Varkala, on the other hand, the focus is more on wellness, spas, meditation and retreats — relaxing to the sound of the ocean. Other practices — yoga, meditation, breathing exercises and etc. — are available in both places, but Kovalam still retains a more intimate, traditional and spiritual approach, whereas Varkala leans towards lightness, temporariness and a tourist vibe.

🍛 Food

Both in Kovalam and Varkala, there’s a huge number of cafés and restaurants — from modest street stalls to ocean-view venues.

In Kovalam’s beach area, everything is quite predictable, if not a bit boring: seafood, local and North Indian cuisine, and simple everyday dishes without much flair — plus plenty of budget places where you can have breakfast or lunch for under ₹100.

If you’re after service and style, head to one of the five-star hotels — it’ll be tasty and atmospheric, but your wallet won’t thank you (a dinner for two with wine or cocktails at Bait or The Terrace will cost around ₹10 000).

In Varkala, even in the beach area, the scene feels livelier and more diverse — both in terms of cuisine and restaurant design. Some spots within walking distance from the cliff can easily compete with high-end places even by Moscow standards.

When it comes to drinks, there’s also a difference: Varkala is more relaxed and offers a wider choice, while in Kovalam alcohol outside five-star hotels is a rarity — maybe just beer, and even that often served wrapped in newspaper or in a teacup.

If you want to “drink properly,” it’s easier to head from Kovalam to Trivandrum, where you’ll find plenty of resto-bars and lounges — or, again, go to a five-star hotel and be ready to spend generously.

Overall, Kerala’s bar culture is underdeveloped due to expensive licenses and government monopoly: the choice is limited and prices are high, so this isn’t really a “drinking” destination.

🎶 Nightlife

In Varkala, there is nightlife — parties, music and DJs are a familiar scene. Here sunsets smoothly segue into live performances and parties stretching into late evening; music festivals and shows are common.

In Kovalam, however, it’s more the exception than the rule: noise and high energy are rare, mostly happening at hotels or on special occasions with strict timing. So if you’re after nightlife, music, fire-shows and drums — your path leads to the cliff at Varkala; Kovalam is more about silence and calm.

🌊 Sea Activities

Surfing, diving, boat rides and other ocean pleasures are available in both places — but with some nuances.

Surfing is more about Varkala: the waves here are longer and more consistent, which is why there are more surf schools. In Kovalam, the sea is calmer, but beginners might actually find it more comfortable.

Diving is Kovalam’s strong side: there are scuba centres at every corner where you can take a course and get certified. It’s more about training than exploring marine life (for coral reefs, manta rays and colourful turtles, it’s better to fly to Lakshadweep or the Maldives — both are quite close), but diving here is still worth trying. Plus, most diving centres offer other leisure programs that might interest you.

Boat trips and parasailing are available in both destinations — nothing too fancy, but enjoyable enough.

A few highlights: in Varkala you can try paragliding — take off from the cliff and see the ocean from above;while in Kovalam, you can easily arrange a trip with local fishermen and head out to the open sea — for fishing, snorkeling, or simply to enjoy the ride.

🌄 From Here — to There

If you want to see more of Kerala or India — there are also a few nuances.

From Kovalam, it’s easier to head inland — towards hills, mountains and national parks.

In just a couple of hours, you can reach Ponmudi Hills, see the Kallar–Meenmutty waterfalls, visit the Neyyar and Peppara dams and lakes, admire or even climb the legendary Agasthyakoodam, or set out to explore the Ghats — Munnar, Marayoor, Thekkady–Periyar.

And just half an hour from Kovalam lies the border with the neighbouring state Tamil Nadu, so exploring its ancient temples, towns and villages is a real pleasure.

From Varkala, on the other hand, it’s more convenient to go in the opposite direction — to Thenmala (eco-park and Shendurney Wildlife Sanctuary) or to Alappuzha and Marari if you’re drawn to calm beaches, unhurried river and canal journeys, and nature retreats.

As for Kerala’s famous backwaters — they’re found in both places: near Varkala it’s Kollam–Kappil, and near Kovalam — Poovar.

Different in mood but similar in scenery: coconut palms, canals, birds and boats. You can take a speedboat ride, rent a kayak, or enjoy a romantic boat trip — whatever suits you best. In Poovar, you might even want to stay for a few days — there are some amazing hotels right in the backwaters.

🧭 Who Should Go Where

If you’re coming for just a few days and want a beautiful beach for sunbathing, swimming and photos, a bit of yoga, cocktails, delicious food, live music, and short nature trips — choose Varkala.

If you’re looking to experience the healing power of Ayurveda, explore Kerala and Tamil Nadu, feel the spirit of ancient Travancore, or settle down for a winter stay — go for Kovalam: it’s closer to the airport, train stations, buses, and all the infrastructure of Trivandrum.

Keep in mind the seasonality — we’ve already covered it in detail, and it’s an important point when planning your holiday, so we strongly recommend reading about it before you book your trip.

🌺 Our Advice

These two places are like morning and evening on the same shore — different in mood but equally captivating. Don’t choose — try both. Everything is individual.If possible, visit both locations and take a look around — perhaps Lord Vishnu himself will guide your choice. The key thing to remember is that one doesn’t exclude the other: Kovalam and Varkala aren’t rivals — they’re chapters of the same story.