Myth #5: India is a “dry country”

between a beachside booze paradise 🏝️ and a sobering-up ward 🧘‍♂️🚫

Prologue, where truth drips in by the glass 🍹

India isn’t one law and one cash register; it’s 28 states and 8 union territories

Each runs its own show: excise duties, licences, dry days (that’s a day when retail liquor shops are closed; alcohol may be available only in hotel bars, and even then very limited — a nasty surprise for the unprepared 🗓️🚫🍷), and their very own rituals at the till. In Kerala there’s even a calendar of these “black days” — like an eclipse schedule, only for your evening plans. 🖤🗓️ The picture changes from border to border faster than the price of mangoes 🥭 in season. In some places the outlets are so hidden that even your satnav gives up — you’re left to follow your nose 👃; elsewhere you get multi‑storey liquor shops with elevators (not a joke!), and your eyes blur from a forest of BAR and LIQUOR SHOP signs 👀🪧.

The extremes that make the plot fun

• Goa — a bar on the beach 🏝️: enthusiasts from all over India flock here to dive into the ocean — and, not rarely, into a bender. Shops are everywhere, as are bars, clubs and pubs; the choice is broad and the prices (like the local administration) are pleasantly liberal. A standard beach vignette: the hiss of a wave, a friendly beat, someone meets the sand face‑first with a satisfying thwack, and their mates quietly drag them by the ankles to the exit — neatly and without drama (under the knowing gaze of the police). Cocktails, spirits, homemade stuff, craft — everything’s here and then some. In short, “an alcohol circus on the shore, where each new glass risks making you the headliner — or at least an Instagram star.”

• Gujarat — the strict sobering‑up ward 🧘‍♂️🚫: import, sale and consumption are banned. You can drink only with a permit: visitors can get a temporary guest permit (online or via licensed hotels/clubs with passport and booking; valid for a limited time and volume), residents can obtain a “medical” permit. Without a permit — fines and real jail time; sterner for repeat offences. Loophole for those who really must: many good hotels/clubs help arrange a guest permit on site and allow consumption in the room or a closed zone; keep the receipt and keep bottles sealed when carrying them. In the business enclave GIFT City there are limited carve‑outs and controlled “wet” zones.

🏜️ Other “dry” territories: Bihar and Nagaland (and local restrictions in several others). Drinking “in public, out on the street” is a bad idea almost everywhere. Factor this into your cultural plans.

Most other states sit between these poles: legal — but not everywhere, not always, and not cheaply.

Where and how you actually buy it 🛒

• Supermarkets? Usually no. Look for specialised wine shops / liquor vends. But there are exceptions: in Mumbai (Maharashtra) some supermarkets can obtain a separate licence (often for wine), and a few do — e.g., Nature’s Basket, Foodhall, Haiko (selected locations have wine shelves/corners) 🍷.

• Kerala — a state monopoly 🏛️: retail is sold only by the state (through BEVCO/state vends). No private retail, hence limited choice and higher prices. On‑premise licences are costly: spirits are mostly served in bars at 4–5★ hotels (there aren’t many), and even beer & wine parlours aren’t that numerous. The retail aesthetic is “Soviet wine‑and‑vodka shop”: grills, a small window, and a nostalgic bouquet. Kochi is a bit better: it’s both touristic and business‑heavy, with more FL‑3 licences at 4–5★ hotels, more beer‑and‑wine parlours, denser dining in Ernakulam and Fort Kochi, and demand/logistics boosted by the port and COK airport.

As a result, residents of Kerala often stock up in Puducherry (Pondy/Pondicherry) and in the Mahé enclave inside Kerala, where excise is milder and choice is wider; for atmosphere and bar variety many make solo or group raids to Bengaluru or Goa. 🚗🍻

The alco‑forecast by state (like weather, but for your wallet) 🛰️

☀️ cheap / ⛅ mid‑range / 🌧️ expensive / 🏜️ dry

• ☀️ Cheaper & wider choice: Goa, Puducherry (incl. Mahé), Daman & Diu, Haryana (esp. Gurgaon/Gurugram) — softer excise, great selection, friendly price tags.

• ⛅ Middle of the road: Delhi/NCR, Uttar Pradesh — a balance between availability and taxes (watch for taxes extra on the bill).

• 🌧️ Expensive: Kerala (BEVCO), Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu — especially for premium and local strong categories.

• 🏜️ Dry & strict: Gujarat (permits), Bihar, Nagaland; in some places only local drinks are allowed and quantity limits apply.

The price of the very same bottle can swing +30–70% across state borders. Check the MRP (maximum retail price) and don’t compare Goa with Kerala — different planets.

How to drink nicely 🍷

Big cities have it all — from craft to speakeasies and cocktail labs. Bar culture is especially strong in Gurgaon (Gurugram) and Bengaluru — modern, stylish, flavour‑forward; Delhi and Mumbai are close behind and keep raising the bar.

In Goa, beyond the many shops, there are plenty of bars, pubs and clubs for every taste and wallet: from beach shacks and noisy party spots to cocktail speakeasies and calm wine bars. Unsure? Follow the sound of the sea and the music.

About the bill 🧾: menus often list pre‑tax prices for drinks; your check will add state VAT/excise plus a service charge. In Delhi, on‑premise VAT on alcohol is high — surprises are possible; look for taxes extra and skim the check before you order.

Duty‑free 🛍️✈️: only for international flights. On domestic routes you’ll find bars/taprooms and licensed shops — but not duty‑free.

Kerala note: most pouring happens in 4–5★ hotel bars/restaurants; Thiruvananthapuram is limited,

Kochi is noticeably better (more licences and venues).

En‑route hack: flying out of BLR (Bengaluru, T2 domestic)? You can drink civilly right in the terminal (a large licensed store and multiple bars/taprooms).

Trend: the drinking scene is growing — new projects open every month despite market turbulence.

📊 Fact box (as of 2024–2025): • Bengaluru — about 2,000 pubs/bars/beer joints; 80+ microbreweries. In 2024 rules were eased (lower space thresholds, multiple taps allowed), many places pour until 01:00. In H1‑2025, 50–60 pubs/bars closed or changed hands — with new concepts moving in. • Gurgaon (Gurugram) — roughly 50 microbreweries plus hundreds of bars/pubs; in 2025 the district delivered record excise revenue in Haryana.

Kerala & beer: stout only in dreams 🍺

There are no private microbreweries; expect mainstream (Heineken, Corona, Foster’s) and Kingfisher. Ales, stouts and quadrupels rarely land here; packaged Bira shows up occasionally, but there are no micros. For craft, you’ll head out of state. An alternative, though, is local toddy — a coconut palm brew 🥥 with a fresh karma: it perks you up in the morning, gets philosophical by lunch, and by evening politely demands snacks. It’s served in licensed toddy shops, often huts under palms — simple, licensed, and memorable. Note: ask for fresh toddy (“today’s tapping?”) — your stomach will thank you. ⚠️😉

What does it cost in Kerala? 💸

Price ballpark (₹, per bottle; retail via BEVCO’s MRP — venues will be higher due to taxes and service):

·       Beer (shop): 🍺 ₹120–250

·       Cocktails (classic hotel bars): 🍸 ₹800–1,000

·       Wine: 🍷 decent from ₹1,000; good picks ₹1,500–3,000

·       Rum: 🏴‍☠️ locally made Bacardi ₹1,000–2,000 (decent for cocktails); good rum from ₹3,000

·       Single malt whisky: 🥃 Indian from ₹3,500; imported from ₹4,000

·       Martini / vermouth: 🍸 ~₹2,000

·       Sparkling (brut): 🥂 from ₹1,600

Note: 🏷️ prices vary by BEVCO outlet/hotel, bottle size and season. Check your MRP and your receipt.

🧾 At venues: expect roughly 1.5–2× retail (taxes + service); resorts can be higher — stay alert.

Ingredients, labels & common sense 🧪

• Budget local brands (brandy/whisky/gin/rum/vodka): 🔎 there are lots — any taste and price tier. But start by reading the label. If you see “permitted flavours/colours”, “caramel colour (INS 150)”, “added sugar”, “ENA/neutral spirit”, or a vague “blended” with no details — ask yourself if your body (and breakfast) needs this. For whisky look for single malt / pure malt (not a molasses‑heavy blend), for gin — the botanicals, for rum — cane origins rather than “rum essence”.

• Sugar in the mix 🍬: be aware — India often sweetens alcohol: from mass‑market beer (glucose syrup / invert sugar) to rum and even vodka. Watch for “added sugar / sugar syrup / glucose syrup / invert sugar”, and caramel colour (INS 150) — it’s about colour and sweetness. Want it dry? Choose bottles without those additions.

• Wine and the odd “grape juice + yeast” label (e.g., Fratelli) 📜: this isn’t “powdered wine”; it’s legal phrasing. The law requires listing base ingredients, so many wineries write “grape juice” and “yeast” even though the method is entirely traditional: fermenting grape must with yeast, and proper ageing. Don’t fear the wording; look at vintage, varietal, region (Nashik, Akluj/Baramati etc.) and the line’s reputation.

• Beer “Strong / Super Strong” 🍺: often a marketing label for a favourite segment. In practice most of these lagers are ~5–6% ABV (sometimes up to 7–8%), with no relation to stout/IPA styles. Typically a sweeter, fortified lager using sugar/adjuncts. Want drinkability? Pick a “lager ~4.5%” or “wheat”. Want flavour? Find a microbrewery.

What to try in India (and not miss) 🧭

Wine (🍇): - Sula and Grover — from simple lines to respectable sparklings and collectible cuvées.

Beer (🍺): - Goan craft, incl. the cult Eight Finger Eddie.- Bira 91 — a solid local brand with a broad range (wheat/white, blonde, IPA, limited editions); widely available in big cities.- Microbreweries in Bengaluru, Delhi, Puducherry, Mumbai (lots on tap and seasonal releases).

Whisky (🥃): - Amrut and Paul John — the pride of Indian malt (with plenty of awards).

Gin (🍸): - Jaisalmer, Stranger & Sons, Hapusa, Greater Than, Terai — botanicals from the desert to the Himalayas.

Rum (🏴‍☠️): - Amrut Two Indies, Segredo Aldeia, Makazai — tasty and transparent lines.- Read the label: if you see “permitted flavours/colours” and added sugar, that’s a “flavoured rum”, not a “pure” one.

Old Monk — a cult and a warm wave of nostalgia, but the classic versions use flavourings and caramel. Think “rum with flavour” rather than “pure rum”. Check the label.

Local drinks (ask the neighbours — they know the door) 🥥

Every self‑respecting state has its “treasure” — a source of inspiration and, sometimes, a headache. Here’s a short flight:

·       🥃 Goa — feni (cashew or coconut): dry, aromatic, GI‑protected. Cheap feni: shoot it and don’t breathe — the smell can be monstrous; aged versions are smoother but pricier.

·       🥥 Kerala — toddy (kallu): tapped from coconut or from the palm’s inflorescence; the latter is softer and nicer, but much harder to find. Always go fresh and look for licensed toddy shops.

·       ☕ Karnataka (Coorg) — homemade coffee liqueur: warming and cosy, like a blanket on a veranda.

·       🧉 Sikkim — tongba: a warm millet “beer”, sipped through a bamboo straw.

·       🌸 Madhya Pradesh — mahua: the spirit of mahua blossoms — from artisanal to commercial releases.

Practical wizardry of survival 🧙

How not to end up sober (legally) — a traveller’s cheat‑sheet

🗓️ Dry days: check the state calendar (Kerala has its own “eclipse calendar”). On these days retail is closed; your chances are mainly hotel bars at 4–5★ — with limits.

⏰ Hours: closing times vary wildly by state/licence; late evening often goes silent. Check Google Maps or the sign on the door.

🪪 ID: carry passport/photo; no ID, no sale — especially in stricter or border areas.

💳 Paying: state vends (BEVCO/TASMAC/MSIL etc.) don’t always take cards; international cards rarely. Have cash or UPI.

🧾 Menu ≠ bill: drinks are often listed pre‑tax; your bill adds VAT/excise and possibly a service charge. In Delhi this bites.

🧍 Queues & tokens: in monopoly states be ready for token systems and a “one purchase — one receipt” rhythm.

🧴 Ingredients: scan labels (flavours/colours/added sugar) — especially for rum, sweet wines and mass beer.

🛄 Carrying: interstate limits differ; don’t carry open bottles; keep the receipt and the seal. On domestic flights, follow airline/airport rules.

🏨 Plan B on a dry day: ask at 4–5★ hotels — sometimes they pour only for guests; clarify in advance.

📅 Legal age: the minimum age for purchase/consumption varies by state (18/21/25). Check local rules.

✈️ Flying from Bengaluru (BLR, domestic): the terminal has a large licensed store and bars/taprooms — handy “for the road”.

🥥 Alternative: in Kerala — toddy (kallu). Get it fresh (today’s tapping?) — and order snacks.

🏝️ Goa note: 80% of the above won’t be needed — you’ll find a bar or shop faster than you can say “feni”. Have fun, but mind your head and the sand.

Finale 📜

India isn’t a “dry country” but a 36‑page bar menu, each page written in tiny letters by a different excise department. In Goa — a beachside paradise under the surf; in Gujarat — a permit‑guarded sobering‑up ward; in Bengaluru and Mumbai — pricey, stylish, diverse; in Kerala — a grilled window and an endless queue of philosophers.